Wednesday, November 21, 2018

Tis the night before Thanksgiving and Make Ahead Gravy

I love, love, love the genius of make ahead gravy.
Love it.
I was raised watching my Grandma Edith, mid-western native and loving home cook, making Turkey gravy with pan drippings. I've done it myself of course, and learned the deglazing technique in school. The trouble is, gravy, the kind you want to enjoy, takes time.
One day the lovely words: Make Ahead Gravy (by Ina Garten) came into my world. Eureka!
It's a beautiful thing to saute a red onion in butter, add stock and a few other delicious ingredients, strain it, cool it and save it over night for the magic of simply deglazing the roasting pan and adding the liquid gold elixir to the base from the night before. Here's the best part, it happens quickly, deliciously and unlumpishly.
And, you'll finish the gravy with ease and without concern of anything other than perfection.

Try it.
Next year.

Tuesday, November 20, 2018

Thanksgiving, shall we? Cranberries, making ahead.

I've certainly never tried to document the Thanksgiving recipes. They are varied and wild. But, as they say in places where things get done, "Why not?"

We're two days ahead and I've already made the glaced cranberries. They are delicious, not so saucy and pretty to boot. Simple. I forgot to mention simple. They are quite easy to make. Here's the recipe.


Glaced Cranberries

Ingredients
12 oz bag organic cranberries
1 cup sugar

Directions
Set the oven to 300 degrees.
Wash cranberries in a bowl of water or colander. Pick out damaged berries. Rinse in the same casserole dish you'll bake in. Drain but don't worry about draining well.
Add the sugar and gently stir in, covering all berries.
Place in the over for 1 hour.
Don't open the oven. Don't stir.
Remove and let cool.
Refrigerate.

You'll see some sugar on the top and you can mix it into the berries carefully. It's not that they're so delicate, but in this cooking style, they have cranberry flavor and maintain their berry shape rather than settling into sauce.

They're particularly lovely on that turkey sandwich you'll be eating Friday.

Monday, November 19, 2018

Olive Oil Eggs

I'm in a delicious rut. Eggs.

I love them and they make their way into my breakfast shenanigans about four times a week. Sundays right now are for the Crustless Quiche challenge (between me and me).

But it's Monday. So, my Dear and I are enjoying Olive Oil eggs. Long ago and again a few months ago, I fell deeply, madly in love with Tuscan Herb Blend Olive Oil.

My friend Mary, owns Antica Olive Oil here in Southern California where I first tasted this magical oil. When my friend, (student and mom-of-two) CJ had a birthday, I gave her a bottle with an 18 Year Old Balsamic Vinegar. It's a simple recipe for salad and pasta. That was it by the way. Tuscan Herb Blend Olive Oil and 18 Year Old Balsamic Vinegar. Done. Easy.

And, while I love this oil on salad and as a finish for chicken, my favorite thing to do is warm it in a pan and let eggs slowly bathe their way to cooked. (Thomas Keller: slow and gentle) All they need is a bit of salt and pepper and they are a beautifully flavored feast.

The Antica Store ships olive oil if you don't find yourself in Southern California at the shop.
I think you'll want the bigger bottle.




Crustless Quiche - a base recipe


Oh, I do love a well-prepared egg. I renewed my cooking vows by working through an online class with Thomas Keller who reminds us the egg deserves to be silken - cooked gently and slowly. The results? Lovely.  Especially the creme brulee texture of quiche. In the last year, I've waltzed away from wheat (and maybe a few other grains) and so the no-crust version is a perfectly lovely choice for a weekly exploration. 


I really love the Bon Appetit version of quiche - it makes our morning menu on Thanksgiving and Christmas. Recently I've been modifying a bit to make Sunday mornings a bit more tasty as we dash out to church. So, a great challenge might be to take the basic recipe and play with different ingredients. Last Sunday I used leeks and shrimp and a rich Coastal Cheddar, a bit of goat cheese and a few tomatoes and roasted red peppers. (This one was topped with parmesan shavings and set under a broiler for a few minutes.) The possibilities!

Caveats: except when I'm making the bacon version and really following the recipe, I don't bring the half-and-half to the low simmer and then wait an hour because - we've gotta go! I use olive oil or butter, not lard. And, we eat it 15 or 20 minutes later rather than two hours later. We may forgo a bit of the creamy texture, but this is still not the more cottage cheesy breakfast casserole we've all enjoyed.

So, here's the Bon Appetit recipe, which is a flawless guide. If you want the full recipe you'll find it here. It's dreamy for sure.

Ingredients:

Filling and Assembly
8 ounces thick-cut smoked bacon, cut into ½-inch pieces
3 large shallots, thinly sliced
3 tablespoons lard or unsalted butter
2 sprigs thyme
1 bay leaf
3½ cups half-and-half
8 large eggs, room temperature
2 teaspoons kosher salt
¼ teaspoon cayenne pepper
Pinch of freshly ground nutmeg
2 ounces Gruyère, finely grated

Cook bacon, shallots, lard, thyme, and bay leaf in a small saucepan over medium-high heat, stirring occasionally, until lard begins to bubble, about 5 minutes. Reduce heat to low (mixture should still slowly bubble) and cook, stirring occasionally, until bacon and shallots are very soft, about 20 minutes. Let cool 1 hour. Strain through a fine-mesh sieve; pluck out thyme and bay leaf. Transfer bacon and shallots to a medium bowl; set aside.

Meanwhile, heat half-and-half in a medium saucepan over medium-high until it begins to bubble. Immediately remove from heat. Let cool 1 hour.

Place rack in middle of oven; preheat to 325°. Purée eggs in a blender on medium-high speed until foamy, about 30 seconds. Add half-and-half, salt, cayenne, and nutmeg. Beat on medium-low until custard is smooth, about 15 seconds.

Place baking dish on a rimmed baking sheet. Sprinkle cheese evenly over bottom of the dish. Top with bacon mixture. Pour half of the custard into dish. Transfer quiche to oven, then carefully pour remaining custard into crust. Bake quiche until edges are set but center slightly wobbles, 55–75 minutes (it will continue to set after baking). Transfer to a wire rack and let cool at least 3 hours before slicing.